Reporting climbing grades and grouping categories for rock climbing

Draper, Nick and Couceiro Canalejo, Jorge and Fryer, Simon and Dickson, Tabitha and Winter, David and Ellis, Greg and Hamlin, Mike and Shearman, Jerry and North, Chris (2011). Reporting climbing grades and grouping categories for rock climbing. "Isokinetics And Exercise Science", v. 19 ; pp. 273-280. ISSN 0959-3020. https://doi.org/10.3233/IES20110424.

Description

Title: Reporting climbing grades and grouping categories for rock climbing
Author/s:
  • Draper, Nick
  • Couceiro Canalejo, Jorge
  • Fryer, Simon
  • Dickson, Tabitha
  • Winter, David
  • Ellis, Greg
  • Hamlin, Mike
  • Shearman, Jerry
  • North, Chris
Item Type: Article
Título de Revista/Publicación: Isokinetics And Exercise Science
Date: January 2011
ISSN: 0959-3020
Volume: 19
Subjects:
Freetext Keywords: Rock climbing; grade tables; climbing grades; Ewbank scale; Yosemitc decimal scale; sport climing
Faculty: Facultad de Ciencias de la Actividad Física y del Deporte (INEF) (UPM)
Department: Ciencias Sociales de la Actividad Física, del Deporte y del Ocio
Creative Commons Licenses: Recognition - No derivative works - Non commercial

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Abstract

Rock climbing is an increasingly popular adventure sport with a growing research base. To date the growth of research and reporting styles has been somewhat haphazard and as a consequence comparison between studies can be problematic. The aim of this paper was to make suggestions about a number of changes that could be made to improve the consistency in reporting between studies. Included with this paper are two new tables, one each for male and female climbers. These provide comparative grading scales for use in reporting for future studies. These tables also provide a suggested framework for grouping climbers according to their ability. Using the tables researchers could group the climbers in their study by a category name (lower grade, intermediate, advanced, elite or higher elite climber) or by a number (level 1-5). In addition, the authors make recommendations about climber characteristics that could usefully be reported in future to assist comparison between studies. It would be helpful to readers if the self-reported, highest lead climbs (on-sight and redpoint) could be reported for a climbing group, along with the types of climbing regularly undertaken.

More information

Item ID: 50772
DC Identifier: http://oa.upm.es/50772/
OAI Identifier: oai:oa.upm.es:50772
DOI: 10.3233/IES20110424
Official URL: https://www.iospress.nl/journal/isokinetics-and-exercise-science/
Deposited by: Memoria Investigacion
Deposited on: 25 Oct 2018 10:23
Last Modified: 12 Nov 2018 12:56
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