Runup variability due to time dependence and stochasticity in the beach profiles: two extreme cases of the Spanish coast

Díaz Sánchez, Roberto and López Gutiérrez, José Santos and Lechuga, Antonio and Negro Valdecantos, Vicente (2014). Runup variability due to time dependence and stochasticity in the beach profiles: two extreme cases of the Spanish coast. "Journal of Coastal Research", v. SI.70 ; pp. 1-6. ISSN 0749-0208. https://doi.org/10.2112/SI70-001.1.

Description

Title: Runup variability due to time dependence and stochasticity in the beach profiles: two extreme cases of the Spanish coast
Author/s:
  • Díaz Sánchez, Roberto
  • López Gutiérrez, José Santos
  • Lechuga, Antonio
  • Negro Valdecantos, Vicente
Item Type: Article
Título de Revista/Publicación: Journal of Coastal Research
Date: April 2014
ISSN: 0749-0208
Volume: SI.70
Subjects:
Freetext Keywords: setup, runup, extreme runup, swash, beach processes
Faculty: E.T.S.I. Caminos, Canales y Puertos (UPM)
Department: Ingeniería Civil: Hidráulica, Energía y Medio Ambiente
Creative Commons Licenses: Recognition - No derivative works - Non commercial

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Abstract

Equations for extreme runup worked out from several experimental studies are compared. Infragraviatory oscillations dominate the swash in a dissipative state but not in intermediate - reflective states. Therefore two kinds of equation depending on either significant wave height, H-0, or the Iribarren number, xi(0), should be used. Through a sand bed physical model with a uniform sand bed slope, equations are proposed for both beach states, and results are compared with precedent field and physical model experiments. Once the equations are chosen, the time-longshore variability in a medium - long term time scale of the foreshore slope is evaluated in two extreme cases relating to the Spanish coast. The Salinas beach on the North coast (Bay of Biscay) displayed a permanent dissipative beach state with small variations in the beach foreshore slope both along the shore and in time, so foreshore slope deviations in a medium-long term period were irrelevant and extreme runup is predicted with the wave height worked out from the design return period. Peniscola beach on the East coast (Mediterranean sea) displayed an intermediate state. If only time variations are analysed, variations in determining extreme runup are irrelevant. In contrast, significant differences were found when the longshore variations were studied in this Mediterranean beach.

More information

Item ID: 35701
DC Identifier: http://oa.upm.es/35701/
OAI Identifier: oai:oa.upm.es:35701
DOI: 10.2112/SI70-001.1
Official URL: http://www.cerf-jcr.org/index.php/international-coastal-symposium/ics-2014south-africa
Deposited by: Memoria Investigacion
Deposited on: 10 Jul 2015 11:23
Last Modified: 10 Jul 2015 11:23
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